Denise Goldberg's blog

Along the spine of the Rockies
My first self-contained (bicycle) tour

Thursday, July 16, 1998

Idaho: Lewiston to Orofino

I got a very late start today - not what I originally intended. I had shipped my bike to a Follett's Mountain Sports in Lewiston after calling and arranging for them to assemble it for me. They charged a nominal fee for the service which was well worth it for me. It gave me some peace of mind not to have to worry about the airline losing the bike (although every trip since the first the bike has been on the plane with me) and it bypassed the need for me to put it back together alone for the first time. I had intended to pick the bike up on the 15th after my flight arrived in Lewiston.

The best laid plans don't always work, as my travel logistics show. I was careful when I booked my flight to choose a non-stop from Boston to Seattle, where I was to change to a commuter flight to Lewiston. I should have had plenty of time to make my flight since I was supposed to have a 2-hour layover in Seattle. For most of the flight, we were told we were ahead of schedule. Then - air traffic delays - and we were diverted to Boeing Field to refuel! Very poor planning on the part of the airline - how can you not have enough fuel for a slight delay during a cross-country flight? I caught a later flight to Lewiston, but by the time I arrived the bike shop was closed. I checked into my motel, opened up my duffel bag to start to re-pack everything into my panniers. I grabbed the empty fuel bottle, and headed out to find groceries for the first couple of days and some gasoline. The stove I have with me on this trip is an MSR Dragonfly, which runs on just about any type of liquid fuel out there. White gas is preferred because it burns cleaner, but it is hard to buy in small quantities - so for this trip I will be using unleaded gasoline. It cost me all of 25 cents to fill my fuel bottle! Once I finished my errands, I spied a Dairy Queen across the way - nothing like starting a biking trip with ice cream!

I had a leisurely (and big) breakfast this morning while I waited for the clock to roll around to opening time for the bike shop. Then I headed over to retrieve my nice purple bike. I spent some pleasant time chatting with Steve Dietz at Follett's about cycling in the area and touring in general. It was 11 AM and already very hot when I started out on my first solo trip!

Luckily my route ran right along a river, so I was able to throw water over myself on a regular basis without losing any drinking water. It helped, but I wasn't able to reach my goal of Kamiah today. Beautiful terrain today with the river nearby. But as I got to the point of feeling the heat was getting the better of me, it was still wide open, not forested, so there was absolutely no shade. I ended up at the White Pine Motel in Orofino. It was recommended by the ranger manning the desk at the Forest Service visitor center. The good (Forest Service) campgrounds don't start until the forests - not too far now, but too far for today. I passed a couple of private campgrounds, but they were in the middle of flat fields with no shade in sight.

When I checked into the motel, one of the owners told me it was 104 degrees out. No wonder the heat was getting to me! And I visited the first of the very funky ethnic restaurants on this trip - the local Chinese restaurant used jalapeno peppers to spice their food.


What beautiful country!


The river follows me...